Thursday, October 20, 2011

A Fine Land Indeed

5 pieces of trivia that every Finland-bound traveler ought to know:


1. Finns (those hearty and enthusiastic residents of Finland) drink the most coffee per capita of any nation in the world. Tallying an astounding 10 cups per day! This bold fact (pun intended) is both reflected and reinforced when you order breakfast or lunch at a cafe and unlimited coffee invariably comes complimentary with your order. Such a robust dosage of caffeine will surely help one cope with the 51 "polar nights" of sunless winter in Northern Finland.


2. "Sauna" is the only Finnish word to have successfully permeated the English language. This linguistic fusion is no major surprise as Finns absolutely adore their saunas! It is expected that every hotel, gym, swimming pool, or recreation center will have saunas available for guests or clients. Moreover, one can find saunas in many restaurants, corporate complexes, and even within the Helsinki Airport! Considering the brutally cold Finnish winters, the need for warm, steamy relaxation is more than understandable. These are a highly recommended cultural experience for any traveler who is, of course, not too squeamish about communal nudity.


3. Bicycles are sexy. Yeah that's right... sexy. Everyone (not just hipsters) rides bicycles in Finland's urban areas. Whether you are on your way to school, studying at university, commuting to work, traveling around the city, or simply out to get some exercise, two wheels are far better than four. To endorse this health-conscious habit, cities have installed bike lanes running parallel to most inner-city roads. These lanes are complete with miniature bicycle traffic lights to regulate the congestion. As a visiting pedestrian, it is essential that you avoid carelessly lingering in such bicycle lanes... bells are much harder to hear than car horns.


4. Nokia is in fact NOT an Asian company. Despite what many of us (at least Lindsey and I) have naively, and perhaps stereotypically assumed, Nokia has been Finn-owned and operated since its formal inception in 1865 and accounts for roughly one quarter of the country's exports and nearly 5% of it's GDP. As such, Nokia is a (the) symbol of Finland's technological industry and a great source of national pride.


5. Santa Claus is real. The veil has been lifted from this age-old mystery... he exists. He resides year round on the outskirts of the arctic circle a dozen kilometers or so North of a small Finnish city called Rovaniemi. He is, as imagined in the hearts and minds of children round the world, larger than life. Literally. He is one of the largest human beings that I have ever set my eyes on. And he speaks in a rich, booming voice that carries with it a tremendous presence and sense of reverence. Think of Aslan from the Chronicles of Narnia... then you'll begin to get the picture. But the best part is, once you exit your enchanting meeting with Santa, you have the wonderful privilege to pay a mere 50 Euros to receive a DVD recording of your once-in-a-lifetime experience! Imagine that!? Were it not for Lindsey's sound voice of reason, I, being completely enamored in the magic of the moment, would have emptied the contents of my wallet at such a marvelous keepsake! Alas... opportunity lost.


All this being said, Lindsey and I had a highly enjoyable experience in Finland. Even in the capital city, Helsinki, the pace of life is noticeably slower and less intense than it is here in Moscow. It was a literal and figurative breath of fresh air for us. We had the fantastic opportunity to visit a Reindeer farm and a Husky farm where we learned a lot about the quirky and arrogant personalities of reindeer and the harsh and wild life of a sled dog. We took the Ferry across Helsinki Harbor to see an old military fortress called Fort Suomenlinna. We explored a few local museums and churches, rode bicycles around Helsinki (a shameful attempt to fit with locals), enjoyed delicious local cuisine (reindeer & meatballs are especially popular) and even managed to find a small amusement park overlooking the city. This trip was a blessing and refresher and came at a pivotal point in time as MPC's Annual Gala is a only a few weeks away and Lindsey will need all the energy and momentum that she can muster. We covet and appreciate your prayers as we return to the daily grind of life in this city. It is bizarre to think that our time here is now more than half over! We miss you all and love you. We look forward to seeing you at Christmas! (and yes, I am undoubtedly planning to stay up all night on Christmas Eve for the chance to reunite with my good friend S.C.)


Here are some photos from our adventures in Finland!


Finnish delicacy... sauteed Reindeer & Meatballs!!

Helsinki Harbor.

Taking the Ferry to Fort Suomenlinna.

Drawbridge entrance to the Fort.


Coming back into Helsinki from the Ferry.

Officially crossed into the Arctic.

White reindeer are the most pretentious.

Crazy Eye.

Husky Puppies.

Who else misses Chewy?

She must be Finnish!

Linnanmaki Park... very reminiscent of Kennywood.

Riding the Ferris Wheel.

Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral.



Will Smith: "Watch that ledge"

She didn't see it either.


Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Long Overdue Update!

Dear ones, apologies are in order. It has been over a month since the previous posting, and I know there are a few of you faithful followers who would appreciate an update! Therefore, this post is intended to do just that, to briefly recap a few of the more noteworthy developments from the last month or so and to give you a more accurate picture of what everyday life is currently like.


Our experience in Moscow has been a blur. It seems, with few delightful exceptions, that each day is filled to the brim with activities, responsibilities, and adjustments. This fast-paced action-packed lifestyle is certainly exciting, but there are also moments when it can become quite fatiguing. Lindsey (who exhibits daily determination and dedication that never cease to impress me) spends the majority of her days balancing the weighty and widely varied responsibilities of her position at MPC Social Services with steady online coursework compliments of her graduate program at Eastern U. Please note that I do not use the terms "weighty and widely varied" lightly. Lindsey's role as the Director of Development for MPC has functionally bestowed upon her duties that would rightly be distributed among a half-dozen separate departments. These include, but are not limited to, program coordinator for all 12 of MPC's social/service programs, chief fundraiser, event planner, intern coordinator, treasurer, graphic designer, and the entire marketing department. Additionally, because this is really not very much to ask, Lindsey is the sole person responsible for planning, implementing, and overseeing MPC's annual gala, a 350 guest event in November that secures 75% of the organizations annual funding... no small task! Through and despite it all, Lindsey applies her energy and efforts diligently, persistently, and with excellence. I think there are very few people who could step into a role as demanding as this in a climate as foreign, and to do so fluidly and flexibly. I am proud to say that she is one of those few!


Now a bit about yours truly (onto the good stuff right!?). I have been spending a healthy portion of my weekdays substitute teaching at the Anglo-American School of Moscow. I have found this to be a phenomenal experience both personally and professionally. The school culture is enthusiastic, dynamic, and incredibly supportive. I have been in consistently enough to become a familiar face in the hallways and to build meaningful relationships with a handful of kids. It always warms my heart to walk into a classroom and see student's faces light up realizing that they got the "cool young sub". It has been an incredible blessing to gain hands-on experience as a high school teacher, something that was previously lacking on my resume, and I believe this will greatly improve my ability to be an effective and knowledgeable high school school counselor when we return to the US. In conjunction with teaching, I have been tutoring a 7th grade student named Danilo once or twice each week, usually after school. I have enjoyed getting to know him through our sessions, and it is a blessing to have a few extra $ (technically rubles) as well. With school occupying my weekdays, my weekends have been filled coaching and coordinating the Moscow Youth Soccer League. The League is comprised of roughly 750 kids between the ages of 4 and 18 (broken into 6 divisions according to age) both expat and native Russian. I heard about the League shortly after my arrival in early August through one of Lindsey's colleagues, and figured I'd offer my services as a means to get connected and involved here in Moscow. Despite my modest expectations, I soon found myself appointed Coordinator for Division 5 (140 6 - 7 year olds), the coach of two teams (Division 5 and Division 2), and as a regular game official. This has been both a major responsibility and wonderful privilege. The administrative/coordinator responsibilities are a constant headache and the 9am-4pm days out on the fields are tiresome, but coaching these kids is a thrill and delight. This weekend will be the final regular season matches, and the following weekend (Oct. 15) will be playoffs. My little guys are currently ranked # 2 in the division and are itching for a shot at the title!!


Despite our busy schedules, Lindsey and I have done our best to create time for recreational and "touristy" activities. Over the last month we went to a show at the Old Moscow Circus (the oldest stationary circus in the world), toured St. Basil's Cathedral, visited the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, and explored the Kremlin & Kremlin Armory (amazing collection of Russian Czarist history). In the near future we will be traveling to Finland from October 8 - October 14 to renew our visas. While there, we hope to visit Rovaniemi (the home of the real trademark Santa Claus), visit a husky and reindeer farm, and enjoy a late night excursion in pursuit of the aurora borealis (northern lights). It should be a great trip! We promise to create a Finland post very shortly after we return!


Here are a few photos from the activities mentioned above, Enjoy!


World Cup 2026 in the making. 
Yours truly outside the Kremlin.
Outside the Kremlin at night.
Linds outside Cathedral of Christ the Savior
View from the pedestrian bridge at night.
Someone is excited for the CIRCUS!!!
From inside the circus. Unfortunately no photos allowed during the show.
Our seats.
I made the birthday girl breakfast.
Some gorgeous couple outside Lenin's tomb.
Russia runs on Dunkin too!
St. Basil's Cathedral. This building is amazing.
Lindsey is good at taking pictures!

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Izmailovo Market

Located within a somewhat "Disneyesque" village, Izmailovo Market is the largest and arguably most eclectic flea market in all of Europe. Vendors in this market sell everything from stereotypical Russian souvenirs (marshrutka dolls, ushankas (big fur hats), porcelain dolls, etc.) to incredibly unique clothing, paintings, antiques, artifacts, war medallions, and other authentic remnants of Soviet history. Originally opened in 1980, the market was created to entertain travelers attending the Olympic Games held that Summer in Moscow. The market was such a successful attraction, for both tourists and Russians alike, that it has continued to open its gates every Saturday and Sunday since.


Lindsey and I had the pleasure of visiting Izmailovo last weekend. I must say, once you become accustomed to the constant jostling, aggressive vendors, and keeping a watchful eye on your pockets, the market has an undeniable charm. There really is something for everyone. I was particularly drawn to the military artifacts and memorabilia. Even today, despite recent Westernization, (and from my non-expert vantage point) there seems to be a faint and residual militaristic aura interwoven into the fabric of everyday life here in Moscow... from the authoritative architecture to the unwritten "codes of conduct" in the Metro system, you are able to find traces of Soviet history just about everywhere you go. Many of these artifacts at Izmailovo are pieces of the vendor's personal family history... belongings of fallen soldiers or even letters written to family during wartime... extremely cool stuff. This would have been an absolute gold mine of supplies during my "playing guns" years of childhood... those Corrigans wouldn't have stood a chance!


Izmailovo is definitely the kind of place you need to visit multiple times. We spent around 5 hours wandering the labyrinth of booths an probably saw just about half of the available merchandise. We will certainly go back, and rumor has it the deals get hotter as the weather gets colder, vendors are more willing to negotiate prices when there are fewer tourists to scam! Also, just an aside for Cath, there are tons of vendors selling "shabby-chic" (I'm told that's the appropriate term) antique furniture, chests, shelves, etc. If you pay for shipping I can totally hook you up! 


Here are a few pictures to give you a little taste of the market!










Thursday, August 25, 2011

From Russia, our Love

Loved ones,


This blog is an effort to keep our family and friends updated more consistently (or as consistently as you choose) regarding our adventures in the former USSR. Now, before I go any further, let me clarify something lest you fall into the temptation of passing judgement.... YES, we do realize that keeping a "blog of our international experiences" is entirely cliche, as is our modified James Bond/Ian Fleming blog title "From Russia, our Love", but Lindsey and I have come to peace with this fact. I think it helps to reframe it. Perhaps think of it as keeping an electronic account of our experiences. It will not only be an efficient way to keep our family and friends up to speed, but also something that Lindsey and I can look back on and remember years after we return home.


Anyway, this being the inaugural blog post, I think it best to keep it brief. We miss you all and love you very much!